Best Cordless Drill on Amazon
"20V MAX" and "18V" are the same voltage class, and DeWalt says so on its own spec sheets. 20V is a peak, no-load figure measured fresh off the charger; the identical 5-cell pack is 18V nominal the instant you pull the trigger. Milwaukee, Makita and Ryobi just print the honest number. The second number buyers overpay for is amp-hours — Ah is runtime, not power: a 2.0Ah and an 8.0Ah pack push the same torque, the big one simply lasts about four times longer. Ignore both and the real decision is which battery platform you want to be locked into. Best entry kit: DeWalt DCD771C2. Best torque per dollar: Ryobi ONE+ HP PSBDD01K (~750 in-lbs). Best pro-grade: DeWalt DCD800D2 XR.
You are not buying a drill. You are buying a battery platform. Every future tool — impact driver, circular saw, work light, leaf blower — has to take the same packs, and many of the best-value drills are sold bare, so the sticker price is not the real price. Decide the platform first and the drill second. See the platform choice decision guide and 18V vs 20V MAX explained.
The same pack, four different labels
| Platform | How it is marketed | Actual working voltage | Note |
|---|---|---|---|
| DeWalt 20V MAX | 20V MAX | 18V nominal | DeWalt states on its own spec sheets that 20V is measured with no load, fresh off the charger |
| Milwaukee M18 | 18V | 18V nominal | Reports the nominal figure directly |
| Makita 18V LXT | 18V | 18V nominal | Reports the nominal figure directly |
| Ryobi ONE+ | 18V | 18V nominal | Reports the nominal figure directly |
This is why cross-shopping on the voltage number is wasted effort. Compare torque, motor type, and what the kit actually includes instead. Full detail: 18V vs 20V MAX and the Voltage Reality Index.
Best first drill: DeWalt DCD771C2
The long-running entry-class benchmark: a brushed 2-speed drill with a real 1/2-inch chuck at an entry-class price band.
Best for: First-time buyers who mainly drive screws and drill wood/light metal occasionally. Watch out: Brushed motor means shorter motor life and less runtime per charge than brushless, and 1.5Ah batteries are small — expect to recharge often on bigger projects.
Best torque per dollar: Ryobi ONE+ HP PSBDD01K
The best torque-per-dollar in this list, and it runs on Ryobi's huge 280+ tool ONE+ battery ecosystem.
Watch out: Ryobi's ONE+ platform is consumer-grade — it lacks the pro-tier durability and rapid-service network of DeWalt/Milwaukee/Makita, so it's a worse fit for daily jobsite use.
The ecosystem argument is the real one here: if you also want a string trimmer, an inflator and a work light on the same batteries, ONE+ covers more ground than any pro platform.
Best pro-grade: DeWalt DCD800D2 XR
DeWalt's higher-tier XR brushless line, with noticeably more torque and a more durable metal chuck than the entry DCD771.
Watch out: Costs meaningfully more than the entry DCD771C2 for a torque bump many casual users won't need — check the tougher tasks you'll realistically do before paying up.
The mid-class alternatives: Makita XFD131 and Milwaukee 2801-20
Notably high torque for its class thanks to Makita's brushless engineering, in a well-balanced compact body. Watch out: Makita's charger is one of the slower ones in this class, and the LXT ecosystem's higher-end batteries cost more than rival platforms.
A genuinely compact brushless drill from the M18 platform, so it drops into an existing Milwaukee battery ecosystem. Watch out: Sold bare (tool-only) in most listings — you need an M18 battery and charger already, or must buy a kit version, which raises the real cost. That bare-tool trap is worth repeating: a "cheaper" drill that needs a battery and charger you do not own is not cheaper.
Why the bigger battery is not the stronger battery
Amp-hours measure how long the pack delivers power, not how much it delivers. Same platform, same voltage, near-identical peak torque — the 8.0Ah pack simply runs roughly four times longer than the 2.0Ah, while being larger and heavier. Bigger cells do sag less under sustained heavy draw, which genuinely matters for saws and grinders, but that is a different claim from "more powerful". See what amp-hours mean and 18650 vs 21700 cells.
If you want more than one tool: combo kits
Adds a cordless work light on the same battery platform — genuinely useful for crawlspace, attic, and under-cabinet jobs. Watch out: M18 batteries and add-on tools trend pricier than Ryobi or entry DeWalt lines, so expanding the kit later costs more.
The most tools per dollar of any kit here, and every tool drops onto Ryobi's huge shared ONE+ battery ecosystem (280+ tools, including outdoor). Watch out: Individual tool quality and runtime trail the pro brands — fine for occasional homeowner use, not for daily trade work.
A combo kit usually costs less than the same tools bought separately and solves the bare-tool problem in one purchase. See the homeowner starter kit class list.
Impact drivers, and why the units matter
A precision drive mode drops power for small screws so you don't strip or overdrive them — genuinely useful for cabinet/trim work. Watch out: Sold bare in most listings — needs a compatible 20V MAX battery and charger, which most first-time buyers won't already own.
Milwaukee's FUEL line pairs the brushless motor with dedicated electronics for stronger sustained output under load. Watch out: The FUEL line's batteries and tools carry a real price premium over Milwaukee's standard M18 lineup for a torque gain many users won't notice day to day.
Read the unit before the number: impact drivers are rated in in-lbs (roughly 1,400–2,500), impact wrenches in ft-lbs (roughly 100 to 1,000+). Multiply ft-lbs by 12 to compare — a 400 ft-lb wrench is 4,800 in-lbs, about double a strong impact driver, which is exactly why one is for lug nuts and the other for deck screws. See in-lbs vs ft-lbs, impact driver vs impact wrench, and which to buy first.
Brick versus concrete: the one buy-wrong-and-it-cannot-work choice
A standard combo hammer drill that adds a percussive hammer mode to normal drilling — good for occasional masonry anchors in brick/mortar. Watch out: This is a percussive hammer drill, not an SDS rotary hammer — it will struggle or fail in solid poured concrete or for larger anchor holes; that job needs SDS.
A true SDS rotary hammer built for repeated concrete drilling and light chipping — a different mechanism entirely from a hammer-drill's chuck. Watch out: SDS bits are a separate, non-interchangeable bit system from standard drill/driver bits, and this tool is unnecessarily heavy and specialized for occasional wood/mortar work.
See do you need a hammer drill for brick? and hammer drill vs SDS rotary hammer.
The picks
Research-based picks (how we evaluate), from published specs, not hands-on lab tests. Live Amazon search links, no prices or ratings, an honest drawback on each.
DeWalt 20V MAX Cordless Drill/Driver Kit (DCD771C2)
18V nominal (20V MAX), 1/2-in chuck, ~300 in-lbs torque, brushed motor, 2-speed, 2x 1.5Ah batteries
The long-running entry-class benchmark: a brushed 2-speed drill with a real 1/2-inch chuck at an entry-class price band.
Best for: First-time buyers who mainly drive screws and drill wood/light metal occasionally
Watch out: Brushed motor means shorter motor life and less runtime per charge than brushless, and 1.5Ah batteries are small — expect to recharge often on bigger projects.
Check price on AmazonNot deciding today? Add it to your cart over there — Amazon keeps it saved (and flags any price change) until you're ready.
Ryobi ONE+ HP Brushless Drill/Driver Kit (PSBDD01K)
18V nominal, 1/2-in chuck, ~750 in-lbs torque, brushless motor, 2-speed, 1x 2.0Ah battery
The best torque-per-dollar in this list, and it runs on Ryobi's huge 280+ tool ONE+ battery ecosystem.
Best for: Budget-conscious homeowners who want one battery platform for drills, yard tools, and more
Watch out: Ryobi's ONE+ platform is consumer-grade — it lacks the pro-tier durability and rapid-service network of DeWalt/Milwaukee/Makita, so it's a worse fit for daily jobsite use.
Check price on AmazonNot deciding today? Add it to your cart over there — Amazon keeps it saved (and flags any price change) until you're ready.
DeWalt 20V MAX XR Brushless Drill/Driver Kit (DCD800D2)
18V nominal (20V MAX), 1/2-in chuck, ~700 in-lbs torque, brushless motor, 2-speed, 2x 2.0Ah batteries
DeWalt's higher-tier XR brushless line, with noticeably more torque and a more durable metal chuck than the entry DCD771.
Best for: Buyers who want headroom for bigger bits and denser materials without stepping up to a hammer drill
Watch out: Costs meaningfully more than the entry DCD771C2 for a torque bump many casual users won't need — check the tougher tasks you'll realistically do before paying up.
Check price on AmazonNot deciding today? Add it to your cart over there — Amazon keeps it saved (and flags any price change) until you're ready.
Makita 18V LXT Brushless Driver-Drill Kit (XFD131)
18V nominal, 1/2-in chuck, ~530 in-lbs torque, brushless motor, 2-speed, 2x 2.0Ah batteries
Notably high torque for its class thanks to Makita's brushless engineering, in a well-balanced compact body.
Best for: Buyers who want higher torque headroom for occasional tougher fastening or larger spade bits
Watch out: Makita's charger is one of the slower ones in this class, and the LXT ecosystem's higher-end batteries cost more than rival platforms.
Check price on AmazonNot deciding today? Add it to your cart over there — Amazon keeps it saved (and flags any price change) until you're ready.
Milwaukee M18 Compact Brushless Drill/Driver (2801-20)
18V nominal, 1/2-in chuck, ~275 in-lbs torque, brushless motor, 2-speed, all-metal chuck
A genuinely compact brushless drill from the M18 platform, so it drops into an existing Milwaukee battery ecosystem.
Best for: Buyers already invested in (or planning to invest in) the M18 platform
Watch out: Sold bare (tool-only) in most listings — you need an M18 battery and charger already, or must buy a kit version, which raises the real cost.
Check price on AmazonNot deciding today? Add it to your cart over there — Amazon keeps it saved (and flags any price change) until you're ready.
DeWalt 20V MAX XR Brushless Impact Driver (DCF887B)
18V nominal, 1/4-in hex, ~1,825 in-lbs torque, brushless, 3-speed + precision drive mode
A precision drive mode drops power for small screws so you don't strip or overdrive them — genuinely useful for cabinet/trim work.
Best for: Mixed-use buyers doing everything from deck screws to delicate furniture assembly
Watch out: Sold bare in most listings — needs a compatible 20V MAX battery and charger, which most first-time buyers won't already own.
Check price on AmazonNot deciding today? Add it to your cart over there — Amazon keeps it saved (and flags any price change) until you're ready.
DeWalt 20V MAX XR Brushless Hammer Drill (DCD996B)
18V nominal, 1/2-in chuck, ~820 in-lbs torque, brushless, 3-mode (drill/hammer/driver)
A standard combo hammer drill that adds a percussive hammer mode to normal drilling — good for occasional masonry anchors in brick/mortar.
Best for: Homeowners who occasionally drill into brick or mortar (not solid concrete) and want one tool for both wood and masonry
Watch out: This is a percussive hammer drill, not an SDS rotary hammer — it will struggle or fail in solid poured concrete or for larger anchor holes; that job needs SDS.
Check price on AmazonNot deciding today? Add it to your cart over there — Amazon keeps it saved (and flags any price change) until you're ready.
Browse cordless drills on Amazon
Which should you buy?
First toolbox, occasional use: DeWalt DCD771C2 — brushed is genuinely fine at
this frequency.
Most torque per dollar, and yard tools later: Ryobi ONE+ HP PSBDD01K.
Daily or heavy use: DeWalt DCD800D2 XR, or Makita XFD131.
Already own the batteries: buy bare and skip the kit premium.
Long screws and lag bolts: add an impact driver, or buy a combo kit.
Brick and mortar: a hammer drill. Poured concrete: SDS —
nothing else will do.
Never: pay extra for "20V" over "18V", or for amp-hours you think are power.
Frequently Asked Questions
For most first-time buyers, the DeWalt DCD771C2 kit is the entry-class benchmark — a brushed two-speed drill with a real 1/2-inch chuck and two batteries in the box. If you want brushless, the Ryobi ONE+ HP PSBDD01K gives the best torque per dollar here at about 750 in-lbs and runs on a 280-plus tool battery ecosystem, while the DeWalt DCD800D2 XR at about 700 in-lbs is the pro-grade equivalent. The Makita XFD131 is the torque standout among the mid-class kits at about 530 in-lbs.
No — they are the same voltage class. "20V MAX" is a peak, no-load marketing number measured on a fresh-off-the-charger battery; the identical 5-cell lithium-ion pack is 18V nominal the moment the tool is under load. DeWalt states this on its own spec sheets. Milwaukee M18, Makita 18V LXT and most rivals simply print the honest nominal number instead. Comparing a 20V MAX tool to an 18V tool is comparing two labelling conventions, not two power levels.
No. Amp-hours measure capacity — how long the battery runs — not power. A 2.0Ah and an 8.0Ah pack from the same platform deliver identical voltage and near-identical peak torque to the tool; the 8.0Ah just keeps delivering it for roughly four times as long. Higher-Ah packs are also bigger and heavier, and with larger cells they sag less under sustained heavy draw, which genuinely helps saws and grinders — but it is not extra power for light-duty drilling and driving.
A drill/driver first, because it is the more general tool: it takes round-shank and hex bits, has a clutch for controlled screw depth, and drills holes. An impact driver only takes 1/4-inch hex bits and delivers rotational hammering, which makes it far better at long screws and lag bolts and worse at delicate or precise work. The common path is a two-tool combo kit, which is why those kits exist and usually cost less than the two tools bought separately.
The unit signals the tool class. Impact drivers are rated in inch-pounds, typically 1,400 to 2,500; impact wrenches in foot-pounds, roughly 100 to over 1,000; and drills quote a lower in-lbs figure at their low-speed setting where torque peaks. To compare, multiply ft-lbs by 12. A 400 ft-lb impact wrench is 4,800 in-lbs — roughly double even a strong impact driver — which is why a driver is wrong for lug nuts and a wrench is wrong for deck screws.
For brick and mortar, a percussive hammer drill like the DeWalt DCD996B is enough. For solid poured concrete or larger anchor holes it is not — that needs an SDS rotary hammer, which uses a completely different striking mechanism and a separate, non-interchangeable SDS bit system. This is the one place in the category where buying wrong means the tool cannot do the job at all, rather than doing it slowly.
It depends on how often you use it. A brushless motor uses electronic commutation instead of carbon brushes, so there is no brush wear, less friction and heat, and typically 20 to 50 percent more runtime per charge plus a longer motor life. The honest trade-off is a real price premium. For a few projects a year, a brushed drill is genuinely adequate; for daily or heavy use, brushless pays for itself in runtime and tool life.
Almost certainly 1/2-inch, and almost certainly you already have it. Chuck size describes the maximum bit shank the drill can grip, not the tool's overall size: a 1/2-inch chuck takes spade bits, hole saws and large masonry bits and generally pairs with a higher-torque drill built to drive them, while 3/8-inch is common on lighter-duty or older tools. Nearly all current 18V and 20V MAX drill/drivers ship with 1/2-inch keyless chucks.